Canadian Caress
In search of serenity? Quebec is the perfect destination for a spa journey
By Debra Bokur
Though I’ve traveled to Canada with the singular purpose of exploring Quebec’s spas, my healing journey here will always be defined by a single moment that took place beside a marshy riverbank, far from massage tables and scented saunas. I was standing beside the water, wondering about the names of the beautiful birds floating peacefully on the surface. Nearby, a group of schoolchildren fluttered toward a waiting van, their teacher’s voice becoming increasingly high-pitched as five young boys dashed into the surrounding meadow, their laughter carrying on the breeze.
They wheeled in unison, like a flock of birds, swooping back toward the van—but as they did, one boy, just old enough to flirt, broke free. He bent over, rising with his arms full of dandelions, and ran directly toward me. Breathless, he bowed, and thrust forward his lush, lemony bouquet, pushing it into my arms. Still laughing, he said something in French that ended with Mademoiselle, then dashed away, glancing over his shoulder one last time to blow me a kiss. Astonished, I stood watching as the van left, the dandelions spilling over my arms. Did this child know, perhaps on some intuitive level, the healing power of this humble plant, or that his gesture broke my heart and healed it, all at once?
Laurentides Region
Filled with the thought of dandelions, I begin my spa journey just outside Montreal. The spas on my list are all members of the Spas Relais Sante, a group of properties that have been certified as meeting strict criteria for membership, from quality of services to the training of therapists. In Quebec, the Ministry of Education holds jurisdiction over massage training programs, and being granted inclusion in Spas Relais Sante offers a guarantee of exceptional quality.
Heading northwest from the city, I find the exquisite Zen sanctuary of Ofuro Spa lying just outside the village of Saint-Adolphe d’Howard. Inspired by the traditional bathing spas of Japan, owner Jacques Aubry built this property by hand. Ofuro manages to seduce every one of my senses. After a session in the dry sauna, I negotiate a series of decks and stairs leading to the property’s icy river. Maybe I handle cold better than I thought, or maybe it’s the beauty of the surroundings, but the water feels good, and I spend about thirty seconds submerged to my neck before heading into the steam bath. Then it’s back outside, past the dragon fountain and the peaceful outdoor resting areas, and into a cold plunge located on one of the lower decks. It feels even better than before, and by the time I’m settled comfortably in a deck chair indoors, my entire being is relaxed.
While resting and allowing my temperature and heart rate to return to normal, I discover that the chair is an excellent vantage point for enjoying the multitude of Asian art Aubry has collected. Every detail of Ofuro seems to be a reflection of his commitment to harmony. Later, strolling the grounds past the pagoda where massages are given, and beyond the sauna hut surrounded by lofty trees, I feel as though I’m walking through the manifestation of his imagination. It’s an addictive place to be.
Further North
The next stop is Spa-sur-le-Lac Club Tremblant, a sprawling, rustic lodge on the shore of Lake Tremblant. The interior’s ski lodge ambience has been enhanced by fireplaces and exposed, rough-hewn wooden beams. While the spa is small, the selection of treatments is impressive. I sample the signature Spa-sur-le-lace Exfoliation, a full body scrub with sea salts and oils, followed by a warm rainshower bath.
The resort is located close to Mont Tremblant National Park, and the helpful hotel staff have arranged for me to spend the afternoon canoeing a river with two of the park’s naturalists in order to learn about the area’s ecosystems. That evening, I enjoy an exquisite meal of duck roasted in honey, paired with a fragrant local wine, then drift to sleep with the sound of wind rustling through the branches of the trees lining the shore of the lake. Morning finds me enjoying panoramic views of the water, and pouring warm maple syrup over my blueberry pancakes, preparing for the drive that will deliver me to the next spa on my route.
Tradition of Healing
Stonehaven Spa is an enchanting surprise. The manor house was formerly a sanitarium where those suffering from tuberculosis came in search of recuperation. Each room is individually decorated, and the original hospital wing is now a luxury spa. The top floor has been converted to an open area featuring a lovely relaxation lounge with enormous windows overlooking the peaceful countryside. One of the product lines featured in the spa is B. Kamins, which contains pure maple syrup. I learn that Canadian chemist Ben Kaminsky, who conducted extensive research into the healing and antioxidant properties of this very Canadian product, developed the line.
After enjoying an Anne Semonin Revitalizing Facial and Moisturizing Body Treatment featuring the famed European product line, I wander outside to the rear of the property, where hydrotherapy pools, an enormous sauna, and an indoor rest area are located. Imaginatively carved wooden lounge chairs surround a natural spring that serves as a cold plunge, and there’s a cave housing a Turkish steam bath. I happily spend part of the afternoon seated on one of the stone benches scattered throughout the steamy interior. This puts me in the mood for dinner, and I find the menu offers a wonderful selection of area wines and healthy, regional cuisine. The choices all look amazing, but it comes down to a delicious fish stew, followed by vegetables roasted in maple syrup, a Canadian chardonnay, and apple tart for dessert. Despite the satisfying meal, I feel absolutely weightless by the time I return to my room and burrow between layers of soft, warm blankets.
