Barefoot Luxury in Central America

Surrounded by the lush, verdant beauty of jungles and tropical beaches, it’s easy to be green

By Debra Bokur, Bess Hochstein & Vonalda M. Utterback

A fertile ribbon of land with the Pacific Ocean on the south and west, and the Caribbean Sea to the north, Central America is made up of seven countries that lie between Mexico and Panama. It’s home to a great diversity of both plant and animal species, with varied ecosystems ranging from sea coasts and mountain ranges to tropical forests and rich farmland. In addition to being very active geologically, Central America offers the outdoor enthusiast a multitude of opportunities to discover the marvels of the natural world. Central America is also the location of a number of exceptional eco resorts, many of them offering spas, yoga, and other healing experiences. And though the term “eco resort” may still conjure images of bare-bone accommodations (candles instead of light switches and cold showers), today’s eco resorts make it easier than ever for concerned travelers to stay true to their environmental standards while still enjoying a level of sophisticated comfort.

Belize

Frigate birds soar languidly overhead, circling the dock at Journey’s End Resort, where the smiling driver of my water taxi has just deposited me. Located on tranquil Ambergris Caye just off the coast of Belize, this low-key luxury resort exudes tropical charm and beachy tranquility. I’m shown to a banana yellow bungalow that sits in a curving row overlooking the beach, each cottage a different shade of sky or island fruit.

A scant quarter mile away, in clear view from my porch, the western hemisphere’s longest barrier reef (and the second-largest in the world) is marked by a line of waves breaking against it. Nearby, at the island’s tip, lies the Hol Chan Marine Reserve, world-renowned as a sanctuary for marine, reptile, and bird species. A row of brightly-hued kayaks and Hobie Cats dot the shore, and I’m told the hotel’s activities staff will be more than happy to give me a spin out to the reef across the sparkling water. Despite the temptation, I head directly for Serenity Spa. Situated mid-property, beyond the main guestroom area and pool (with a swim-up bar), the spa is more spacious than I’d anticipated for an eco resort. My therapist, Taz Ackerley, turns out to be an experienced pro, and delivers a deep tissue massage with a light coconut oil that’s the perfect antidote to the series of flights and boat taxis that have brought me here from Denver.

Before a scrumptious dinner overlooking the water at the open air Luna restaurant, I explore the resort, where green operating policies include water and energy conservation programs, low-flow toilets, extensive recycling, and the use of biodegradable cleaning supplies. An obvious effort was made to have the design and placement of buildings blend with the surroundings in a way that keeps guests deeply aware of the rich environment around them. A peek into the large conference room makes me smile: inside, it’s set up to resemble a thatched Tiki bar, and the floor of deep sand allows those caught up in meetings to still enjoy the sensation of digging their toes into the sand.

In the morning, after a breakfast of fruit and raisin pancakes made with coconut milk, I join several other guests for an excursion to the Mayan ruins on the mainland. The resort makes all the arrangements, from flights and boats to guides and lunches, so all we’re required to do is sit back and enjoy the adventure. After a short flight to the mainland and Belize City, we drive northwest along one of the country’s four main highways. From the district of Orange Walk, the journey to the ruins involves an hour or so trip by speedboat down the winding New River. Beneath the shade of bullet trees and cocoa palms, sleepy crocodiles sun on tree branches that extend out over small groupings of lily pads, while snail kites and ospreys soar and dip overhead. As we slowly navigate the river’s many twists and turns, our guide, Belize native George Gongora, tells us this is prime country for both jaguars and tapirs, but if any are about, they keep out of sight.

The extensive ruins at Lamanai, which translates to “submerged crocodile,” are still an active archeological site, operated by the National Institute of Culture and History’s Institute of Archaeology. Once a thriving city, Lamanai was believed to be occupied as early as the 16th century B.C. To date, only seven of hundreds of temples and other structures have been uncovered, including the impressive, stepped-pyramid Jaguar temple. Gongora tells us of the importance of jaguar symbolism in the Maya’s zoomorphic deity structure, where the highly worshiped jaguar was regarded as a war god. As we hike the paths and climb among the ruins, he also takes the time to identify local plants and trees, explaining how the Maya used them for medicine and spiritual rituals.

Back at the resort, dinner begins with a rich conch chowder made with pumpkin and sweet peppers, followed by a gingered-plum-glazed tuna. For dessert, it’s a moonlight cruise aboard a catamaran from the nearby town of San Pedro south along the island’s coast. Sailing is a popular pastime here, and the resort observes a strict policy of non-motorized watercraft for recreational use. The full moon shining down on the boat’s deck reminds me that thousands of years ago, here in this very place, this moon phase was an important component of many Mayan ceremonies.

My last day at Journey’s End starts with a half-hour-long Three Fregado de Cuerpo de Aucar with Guava Mango, which translates, I’m told, to the Three Sugar Body Scrub. Three different sizes of raw sugar are used for a complete body exfoliation. Spa director Jessica Waters explains that the largest granules remove tough, old skin, while the medium and smaller sizes act to refine and smooth. After rinsing, a rich body butter scented with guava and mango essential oils is applied. Waters says that she’ll happily customize a take-home batch of body butter with a choice of scents that also include cucumber, melon, lavender, and sweet vanilla (unscented is also an option).

In the afternoon, there’s another excursion to the mainland that’s once again completely organized by the resort. Gongora takes our small group to another site once sacred to the Maya for a jungle hike and tubing experience. We hike for about 45 minutes through thick jungle along the edge of Caves Branch River, which becomes an underground river flowing through a series of ancient caves once inhabited by the Maya. Along the way, Gongora stops to slice pieces of fresh sugar cane for us to try. The river, swollen from recent rains, is running fast today. We don headlamps and climb aboard our tubes, floating into caves that the Maya believed to be the entrance to their underworld, which they called Xibalba. The experience is at once eerie and beautiful, and as we float out into the daylight at the conclusion of the voyage, Gongora tells us that we have just experienced what the Maya viewed as being renewed and reborn.

On the way back to the resort, I sip a pineapple soda and contemplate the rebirth analogy. It seems appropriate for a wellness journey, and as we make our way back along the road between green tangles of forest, thick with singing birds, I raise my bottle and salute Belize, and everything growing and green.

If You Go:

Where to Stay

Journey’s End Resort
Ambergris Caye
(800) 460-5665
www.journeysendresort.com

Getting Around

American Airlines
(800) 433-7300, www.aa.com
Daily flights to Belize City from major U.S. cities including Dallas, Orlando and Miami.

Tuff-E-Nuff Tours
011 (501) 621-1312
www.tuffenufftourbelize.com
Cave tubing, fishing trips, snorkeling and scuba adventures, excursions to Mayan ruins, manatee tours. Local, knowledgeable guides; all details taken care of.

Tropic Air
San Pedro, Belize
For travel within Central America.
www.tropicair.com

Maya Island Air
For travel within Central America.
011 (501) 223-1140
www.mayaislandair.com

Tourism Information

For more information about Belize, visit the country’s official tourism website:www.travelbelize.org