Nicaragua
Nicaragua: Imagine miles of white sandy beaches, two varied coastlines, the largest area of primary-growth rainforest north of the Amazon, breathtaking
vistas, and historic colonial cities. Add an abundance of beautiful lakes, towering volcanoes (seven of them still active), and friendly native people, for a truly unforgettable vacation experience.
If Nicaragua isn’t tops on your list of vacation hot spots, you’re not alone. The country’s past tumultuous political history and horrendous civil war sixteen years ago still cast a shadow over this achingly beautiful and unspoiled paradise. But the times, they are a changing. The government is now a constitutional democracy and is currently rated as the safest in Central America, with tourism fast becoming a primary source of revenue.
Commercial flights into Nicaragua take you to its capital city of Managua, with a population exceeding one million. Most roads outside the city are rough and poorly maintained; you can make advance reservations for an SUV from Budget rentals, or book a guided tour. Since I was traveling solo, I used the excellent service of Marlon Rivera with Gray Line Tours.
Don’t expect to get a sense of the unspoiled, underdeveloped Nicaragua in the capital. Sadly, earthquakes in 1931 and 1972 destroyed most of the city’s colonial buildings. And with its clean and modern airport, U.S.-style shopping centers and choice of luxury hotels, this is now a typical “big” city, complete with congested streets and chain restaurants.
However, in Granada, a mere 27 miles away from the hustle and bustle of city life, I took a step back in time. Founded in 1524, this well-known colonial city is built around its main square, Parque Central. Most sites are in walking distance, or you can rent one of the many horse-drawn carriages to get the lay of the land. My time was limited, but I fell in love with the beautiful church of La Virgen de Guadalupe, and viewed pre-Columbian treasures along with an informative history lesson of this quant and colorful city at the Convento de iglesia de San Francisco museum.
Two not-to-be-missed natural wonders near Granada: Lake Nicaragua and the Mombacho volcano area. I’m drawn to the water (it’s the Pisces in me), so I was thrilled to tour the largest lake in Central America, Lake Nicaragua. In addition to its size, Lake Nicaragua is home to the only freshwater sharks in the world, and contains more than 360 lush volcanic islands, or isletas, many of which are privately owned. Kayaks are available to explore part of this 100-mile long lake, or book a guided motorboat as I did and just sit back and enjoy the ride.
The nearby dormant Mombacho Volcano is in a protected nature reserve and a beautiful example of the dry tropical forest typical of the area, which host only flora and fauna able to sustain six months of very heavy rains (May–November) followed by six months of almost no rainfall (December–April). I was enchanted by beautiful butterflies, the sight of howler monkeys lounging in the treetops, and the chance to try a ripe sweet coffee berry, plucked fresh from a bush on the coffee plantation that surrounds the volcano.
On clear days, travelers can take the guided drive to the top of Mombacho for a spectacular view of the countryside. Once on top, they’ll also find self-guided eco trails that take them through one of only two cloud forests in the region.
Since the day we arrived was too cloudy for a good view up top, my guide suggested a canopy tour instead. I summoned up all my courage for this incredible zip line trip across the jungle, stretching between 17 platforms situated from 10 to 100 feet above the ground. I am not normally the thrill-seeking type, but I vote this a not-to-be-missed experience.
After all of my touring adventures, I was more than ready for R&R at Morgan’s Rock Hacienda and Eco-Lodge, the ultimate in all-inclusive eco lodges, located just north of the sleepy fishing and surfing village of San Juan del Sur, and about an hour drive from Granada. This stunning property is a project of nature conservation, community development, and reforestation, along with heavenly accommodations, a friendly and professional staff, and true four-star dining. Fair warning: The drive on mostly dirt roads is long, hot, and very bumpy. The resort can arrange transportation from Managua; inquire when you book your reservation.
My arduous ride was all but forgotten, however, as soon as I arrived at this breathtaking resort. The fifteen very private bungalows are built cliffside with views of the Pacific Ocean and surrounding jungle. Solar panels provide warm water. Ideal for nature lovers, the main sleeping area is screened in, thankfully, to keep (most) insects and other jungle critters out; the deck is totally open to the elements and boasts amazing views of the ocean.
Morgan’s Rock is part of a full-scale tree farming, reforestation, and conversation project that extends over 4,500 acres. Over the past 4 years, they’ve planted 1.3 million hardwood and fruit trees and have set aside roughly 2,000 acres of primary forest strictly for conservation. I took the “Magic of Reforestation Tour” to view the impressive project and plant my very own tree. It’s one of more than 10 tours available, including sunrise/sunset kayaking, nature walks, mountain biking, snorkeling, horseback rides, and fishing. Massage and yoga are also available and require advance booking.
As for relaxing, I preferred the walking meditation of long strolls on the beautiful private beach. When I needed a break from the intense tropical sun, I parked myself in a hammock at one of several covered beachside cabanas. In fact, I found I needed to rest up for my trek back to my bungalow every night! Morgan’s Rock is not for the infirm, or exercise-adverse. You reach your room by first crossing a 350-foot suspension bridge high above the jungle floor (don’t worry, it’s very safe) and then climb many stairs up the steep cliff to your bungalow. Generally, the higher the room number, the higher the climb—a good thing to keep in mind when making your reservations.
It wasn’t easy saying adios to such a memorable place, but fortunately I left for Norome Villas, an enchanting resort located next to the ancient crater lake, Laguna de Apoyo. The villas of Norome are also built up on the jungle hillside. Walking up and down the steep road to reach your villa is optional however, since a small van is available to transport you at most any time of the day or night. Norome offers traditional-style hotel rooms, or villas with up to three bedrooms, full kitchens, and dining/living room areas—perfect for extended family vacations.
Wilfrido Salazar, Norome’s new operations manager, tells me that the spa should be completed in 2007. In the meantime, you can schedule an excellent hour-long massage, as I did, at the hands of Jaime Franco, the resident massage therapist, for a mere $30.
The road in and out of Norome is newly paved and makes for easy day trips to Granada and Masaya, the home of many local handicraft markets, full of beautiful pottery, fine hammocks, and intricate woodwork.
The shining star of the resort, however, is the 23,000-year-old Lake Apoyo, formed after the volcano’s last eruption. As I dined al fresco at the resort’s lakefront restaurant, I drank in a stunning view, complete with the Mombacho volcano beckoning in the distance. The lake itself is perfect for kayaking or wind surfing (no motors allowed). Although most of the shoreline is volcanic rock, the water is clear and bathtub warm. Salazar invited me on a peaceful 6 a.m. kayaking trip and swim, when the lake was at its calmest and the water as smooth as glass.
During my six-day tour, I was only able to cover a very small portion of the country; merely scratching the surface of what Nicaragua has to offer the adventurous. Certainly, part of Nicaragua’s charm is that it’s still a hidden gem, without the hordes of “turistas” found in other tropical climes. My advice? Don’t wait for better roads and more development. Go now while you can still experience its beauty alongside the thrill of discovery.
If You Go:
Where to Stay
Morgan’s Rock Hacienda and Eco-lodgeLocated about 40 minutes outside of San Juan del Sur
www.morgansrock.com
Norome Villas at Laguna de Apoyo
Laguana de Apoyo, 30 minutes outside of Granada
www.noromevillas.com
Getting Around
Gray Line Tours Nicaraguawww.graylinenicaragua.com
Budget Car Rental
www.Budget.com.ni
Canopy tours and Mombacho Volcano
www.mombotour.com
www.mombacho.org
Tourism Information
For general information on Nicaragua:
www.visit-nicaragua.com
—Vonalda M. Utterback
For Costa Rica go to the Next Page
